Travel - Bangkok/Rattanakosin

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Rattanakosin is the core of historical Bangkok.

The historic center of Bangkok, Rattanakosin Island is where King Rama I built his new capital in 1782. Home to the Grand Palace and Wat Pho, among others, this is where most of Bangkok's 'must see' sights can be found. The focal point of the area are the wide open Royal Grounds (Sanam Luang), the site of many ceremonies and festivals associated with the royal family. Surrounding these grounds are the dozens of traditional temples, palaces, parks, museums and monuments the area is rich.

The district extends north into an area known as Dusit, a leafy European-style area and the political center of Thailand since King Chulalongkorn built his private palace there in the 1900s. The seat of power to this day, it feels remarkably different from Rattanakosin Island with its broad avenues and breezy environments. Numerous political institutions and royal palaces can be found here, such as the National Parliament, Government House, Dusit Palace and Chitralada Palace (the residence of current King Bhumibol Adulyadej).

• Bangkok Tourist Information Office, 17/1 Phra Athit Road (Under the Pinklao Bridge), ? +66 2 225 7612 (fax: +66 2 225 7615 6), [1]. It's a good idea to stop by the tourist office for some maps of the city. You can also get hotel and dining addresses here or ask any other questions you may have.  edit

The BTS and Metro do not connect to Rattanakosin yet, although the Metro's southern terminus at Hualamphong Station is within striking distance of Chinatown. For time being, your options are to either take a taxi, or use the boats:

The best way to get in Rattanakosin is by Chao Phraya Express Boat. You can get there by taking the Skytrain to the Saphan Taksin station and then head your way up the river. Tha Chang is the closest pier to the Grand Palace, with only a 5 minutes walk. Tha Tien is the closest pier to Wat Pho, and you can take a 3-baht ferry shuttle across the Thonburi side of the river to Wat Arun.

Alternatively, you can take the Saen Saep Express Boat to its western terminus near the Golden Mount (Wat Saket), from where the big temples are a brisk stroll or short tuk-tuk hop away.

The Grand Palace and Wat Pho are a 20 minute walk from Khao San Road, but a confusing and hot one if you aren't familiar with the area.

Rattanakosin has a lot to see and the top three attractions are conveniently clustered right next to each other. For all temples, bear in mind that you must be dressed appropriately (no shorts, no flipflops, no sleeveless shirts) or risk being denied entry, although some places will offer rental parachute pants for a small (refundable) deposit.

Whether you walk or take a tuk-tuk, don't listen to anyone telling you the temples are closed for a 'Buddhist holiday', that they're only open in the afternoon because the monks are praying, or anything else along those lines. The Grand Palace and Wat Pho are open every day, pretty much all day (dawn till dusk). It's worth giving both the Grand Palace and Wat Pho each a full day since the heat and glare are very wearing and there is a lot to take in.

Bangkok's most popular tourist attraction, the Grand Palace (??????????????? Phra Borom Maha Ratcha Wang) [2] is the former residence of the King and built adjacent to and more or less integrated with the Temple of the Emerald Buddha (Wat Phra Kaew). Combined entry is a steep 350 baht, plus an optional 200 baht for an audio guide (for two hours) in English, French, German, Spanish, Russian, Mandarin, Japanese or Thai; Thais get in for free. Your ticket also includes entry into the Vimanmek Mansion and Abhisek Dusit Throne Hall (outside the compound in the Dusit area) and the Royal Pavilion (on palace grounds). The palace is open every day from 8.30AM to 3.30PM (some parts stay open until 4.00PM); do not believe any scammers who attempt to convince you otherwise. It can get very crowded (and hot) once the tour buses start to roll in, so getting an early start is a good idea! There are free English tours four times a day, look for the sign just after you pass the ticket gate. But the palace grounds can also be easily explored on your own.

The palace was originally built together with the establishment of Bangkok (Krung Rattanakosin) by King Rama I the Great and has been expanded ever since. It covers a wide range of architectural styles, ranging from the pure Ayutthayan style of the temples to a blend of Thai and Western for the later structures. Today, the complex covers a total area of 132 rai and comprises 3 major quarters; namely, Phra Maha Prasat ? the throne halls, Phra Ratchamonthian Sathan ? royal residences and Wat Phra Keow ? the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. While the king no longer lives here, a large part of the complex is used for ceremonies and is off-limits to tourists.

Visitors to the Palace are corralled along a set route. In order, the main buildings you will see are:

• Wat Phra Kaew, or formally Wat Phra Si Rattana Satsadaram (???????????????????????????????????). Best known as the Temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaeo is a royal temple situated on the northeastern corner of the Grand Palace compound. The temple houses a diminutive jade statue, the Emerald Buddha, of uncertain but long provenance and revered as the symbol of the Thai state. It originally surfaced in northern Thailand, was taken to Vientiane for a while, and was returned to Bangkok after the Thais sacked the city in 1828. Visitors line up around the building for a chance to walk by the Emerald Buddha with offerings of lilies and incense. You must take off your shoes, and absolutely no photography is permitted inside. The Buddha's clothing is changed three times a year depending on the season; you can see the other outfits in the Treasury Museum. The wat is actually series of courtyards full of chedi towers in gold and broken porcelain and smaller wats containing Buddhas of various poise and size. Also check out the enormous mural of the Ramayana decorating the exterior wall. The construction of the temple was completed in 1784, and it has consistently undergone several times of restoration from the reign of King Rama I through to the reign of King Rama IX. The temple?s ordination hall ? Phra Ubosot ? and enclosing cloister house fine murals. Other interesting structures include a group of 8 Prang towers, Phra Si Rattana Chedi, a model of Angkor Wat, Prasat Phra Thepbidon, etc.

• Phra Thinang Dusit Maha Prasat (????????????????????????), formerly named as Phra Thinang Inthraphisek Maha Prasat, is the first throne hall to have been constructed within the Grand Palace to house royal remains of the kings, queens and members of the royal family. It is also for use in major royal ceremonies such as auspicious rites and merit-making.

• Phra Thinang Aphonphimok Prasat (?????????????????????????????), located near Phra Thinang Dusit Maha Prasat served as the king?s mounting platform as well as dressing area for a royal procession.

• Phra Thinang Phiman Rattaya (????????????????????), established in 1789 and served as the king?s royal chamber as well as assembly hall for members of the royal family and audience hall for ladies of the court to receive royal decorations and title?s paraphernalia in the reign of King Rama VI. It was also where the bathing ceremony for royal remains of the members of the royal family before the urn would be placed inside the Phra Thinang Dusit Maha Prasat.

• Phra Thinang Chakri Maha Prasat (????????????????????????), built in the reign of King Rama V in 1876 to receive royal guests who were monarchs or heads of state. Built in a very European style, but with a Thai roof somewhat incongruously plopped on top.

There are also several other principal throne halls such as Phra Thinang Ratchakaranyasapha, Phra Thinang Munlasathan Boromma-at, Phra Thinang Sommutithewarat Upbat, Phra Thinang Borommaratchasathit Mahoran, Phra Thinang Chakraphatdi Phiman, Phra Thinang Phaisan Thaksin, etc.

After leaving Chakri Maha Prasat and the Palace's entry gate is in sight, turn right, double back past the ticket counters and pay a visit to the Pavilion of Regalia, Royal Decorations and Thai Coins (free entry with your ticket). Not only is it air-conditioned, but it houses an impressive array of gold jewelry, weaponry, coins and gives some insight into the evolution of the dynasty and its elaborate royal ceremonies. A highlight are the seasonal "clothes" of the Emerald Buddha, ranging from a warm winter wrap to a minimalistic ensemble for summer.

A trip to Bangkok is not complete without a visit to some of its hundreds of Buddhist temples, known in Thai as "wats". Temples are an essential part of daily life of most Thais, thus most of them have impressive architecture and much care has been taken into the decoration. Every temple is unique ? some of them are beautifully decorated with thousands of colored glass pieces, while others portray massive Buddha statues of pure gold.

One could spend weeks visiting temples in Bangkok, but as most visitors only spend a couple of days in the city, it is important to choose the ones that are especially beautiful, sacred and culturally significant. The Grand Palace is not just a palace, but also includes Wat Phra Kaew, the holiest temple of Thailand. It is considered a must-see for every visitor of the city, and expect to spend at least a full morning just walking through the temple. Beside the Grand Palace, most visitors to Bangkok at least visit Wat Pho, the largest reclining Buddha statue in Asia, and Wat Arun, which is beautifully decorated with blue and white ceramics (it is technically at the Thonburi side of the river, but easily visited with the ferry from Tha Tien). Other prominent temples are Wat Saket and the Golden Mount, built at an artificial hill and thus has an amazing view over the city and Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing at the eastern side of Rattanakosin. Wat Rajnadda, Wat Thepthidaram, Wat Intharawihan, Wat Ratchabophit, Wat Ratchapradit and Wat Benjamabophit could be considered more off the beaten path and thus give a more authentic experience.

The temples are not just touristic sights, so always show respect by dressing appropriately, especially at the Grand Palace (wear long sleeves and trousers). The temples play an important role in Buddhist traditions. Monks wake up early in the morning, and you might want to attend the daily alms ritual between 5AM and 7AM (called tak bat ???????). Monks line up in front of the temple accepting donations from the people (daily necessities for the monks, such as rice, soap, candles, soda cans and even toilet paper). By giving, Buddhists believe that one gets a better life beyond this one. The best temple to experience the alms ceremony is Wat Benjamabophit in Dusit. At one of the buddhist markets, you can buy a bucket filled with products to give to the monks (see Buy).

• Wat Arun (???????, also known as the Temple of Dawn), 34 Arun-Amarin Rd (Take the cross-river ferry from Tha Tian Pier), [3]. As it is located on the Thonburi side of the Chao Phraya river, you can find more information in that district article. It can most easily be accessed using the 3-baht ferry from Tha Tien Pier (near Wat Pho) at the Rattanakosin side of the river. The temple is a distinctive single spike intricately inlaid with white broken porcelain. At 88 meters it was also the tallest structure in Bangkok until the advent of the modern skyscraper. B50.  edit

• Wat Intharawihan (?????????????), (North of the Khao San Road area and west of the Marble Temple). daily 8AM-8PM. Known for the so-called Standing Buddha (Luang Pho To), a 32-meter-tall golden Buddha image. The topknot of the Buddha image contains a relic of Lord Buddha brought from Sri Lanka. The temple is worth a visit for the sake of photographing the Buddha. However, it's worth mentioning that this temple is a regular site on the "gem scam" circuit, so ignore anyone approaching you and bringing up the topic of purchasing gems or taking a tuk tuk tour. Free.  edit

• Wat Pho (????????, Temple of the Reclining Buddha), Mahathat Rd (Tha Tian Pier), ? +66 2 225 9595, [4]. daily 8AM-5PM. A 15 minutes walk south of the Grand Palace, Wat Pho is touted as housing the largest reclining Buddha in the world — gold plated, 46 metres long, 15 metres high, with inlaid mother of pearl soles. It is an impressive sight and considered one of the must-sees of Bangkok. It is one of the largest temples of Bangkok with 80.000 square meters, and the home to more than 1000 Buddha images. On the back side of the statue, you can buy a bag of 50 satang coins and plunk them one by one into the row of copper pots for good luck. There's plenty of other sights and activities inside the large temple complex; above all, try a massage or sign up for a course in the massage school at the back (as described in the Do section). B50.  edit

• Wat Ratchabophit (???????????), Fuang Nakhon Rd (Near Wat Pho). This one is off the beaten path, and entrance is free. Built by King Rama V in 1869, it was in keeping with tradition that each monarch constructed a temple to mark his reign. The temple is a mixture of local and western styles, showing an awakening interest in new ideas and a desire to experiment with them. The exterior of the chapel is in Thai style, but the interior is decorated in European style. A major feature of this wat is the Royal Cemetery on the west side, which contains numerous monuments, including four white ones in which the ashes of the four Queens of King Chulalongkorn are interred. The one for Queen Savang Vadhana, grandmother of the current King, is the first on the left as you walk in eastward from the road. Free.  edit

• Wat Ratchanadda (??????????????), Mahachai Rd. daily 8AM-5PM. Somewhat off the beaten track but well worth a visit, close to the Saen Saep canal boat terminus and the Golden Mount, and easily spotted since its spires are of black iron, not the usual glittery gold. It's main structure, Loh Prasat, was built in the reign of King Rama III in 1846 and is in a highly unusual style: the wat itself is a 5-storied gleaming white structure with rows of Buddhas and nice views from up top, very elegant, calm and relaxing after the crowds at the big temples. A good view of Bangkok is afforded from the top tier. At night, the square around it is beautifully illuminated. Also check out the Buddhist amulet market nearby, as described in the Buy section. Free.  edit

• Wat Ratchapradit (????????????????????????????). daily 8AM-6PM. This modest wat is opposite the canal from Wat Ratchabophit, to the north of Saran Rom Park. It was built in the reign of King Rama IV who intended it to be a temple in the Thammayut Sect as well as to be one of the 3 major temples as required by an old tradition to be situated within the capital. The place was originally a royal coffee plantation in the reign of King Rama III. With his personal donation, King Rama IV (Mongkut) bought the plantation and had a small temple constructed there, and his ashes are now interred under it. A place of interest in this temple is Phra Wihan Luang - the royal image hall - which houses mural paintings depicting ?The Royal Ceremonies over 12 Months? and legend of the solar eclipse phenomenon. Free.  edit

• Wat Saket and the Golden Mount (????????????????????), ? +66 2 233 4561. daily 8AM-9PM. Wat Saket's major feature is the Golden Mount, an artificial hill dating from the early 19th century. A huge chedi was built on top of the hill in the reign of King Rama III, but it collapsed during the construction process as the soil beneath could not support it. Under the reign of Rama IV, construction started on a more modest chedi. The structure was completed during the reign of Rama V at the end of the century and was enhanced in order to accommodate relics of the Buddha presented to the King of Thailand by the British Viceroy in India. A spiral staircase of 318 steps leads from the ground to a terrace and shrine-room - the Buddha's relics are housed in a gold-leaf covered shrine at the center of this area. Note that while the shrine itself is an ancient structure that creates an atmosphere worthy of respect, the area just below is more akin to a tacky fair ground than one that leads to one of the nation's most sacred sites. Also, the harsh way of requesting the entrance fee does little to inspire the worthy pilgrim or traveler. In short, the shrine is definitely worth including in a travel itinerary, but do not expect a quiet and respectful environment. B10.  edit

• Wat Suthat and the Giant Swing (??????????????????????), Bamrung Muang Rd, ? +66 2 222 0280, [5]. daily 9AM-9PM. The most prominent feature of this wat is the Giant Swing (Sao Ching Cha), a huge red frame located in a plaza opposite the main entrance of the temple. The swing was once used in a dangerous ceremony, which has been cancelled since 1932 due to the injuries and deaths that resulted. The wat is adorned in the front with Chinese pagodas. Under the presiding Buddha statue in the main temple are the ashes of King Rama VIII. Wat Suthat B20, Giant Swing free.  edit

• Wat Thepthidaram, Mahachai Rd (?????????????), ? +66 2 222 5067. daily 8AM-5PM. The temple was built in the reign of King Rama III with a mixture of Chinese architectural styles. Sunthon Phu, one of Thailand?s greatest poets, resided in this temple during his monkhood from 1840-1842. Free.  edit

• Bhodhi Court. You might stumble across a tree on a pedestal when walking from Phra Chan Market to Thammasat University. The tree has played an important role for the fight for democracy in Thailand. The democratic movements of 1973, 1976 and 1992 all started at the Bhodhi Court.  edit

• City Pillar Shrine (???????????? ''Lak Meuang''). According to an old Thai tradition, a city pillar — probably a descendent of the Hindu Shiva lingam — has to be built upon the establishment of a new city. King Rama I had the Bangkok city pillar erected near the Temple of the Emerald Buddha on Sunday, April 21st, 1782, with the city's horoscope inside. The original pillar was made of cassia wood known as Chaiyaphruek, measuring 75 cm. in diameter and 27 cm. high. In the reign of King Rama IV, the old dilapidated pillar was replaced by a new one made of the same kind of wood, measuring 270 cm. high and standing on a base of 175 cm. wide, sheltered by a Prang-shaped shrine as it appears today. The shrine also houses images of protective deities including Thepharak, Chaopho Ho Klong, Phra Suea Mueang, Phra Song Mueang, Chaopho Chetakhup and Phra Kan Chai Si. Free.  edit

• Front Palace Remains, (Inside Thammasat University compound).  edit

• King Rama III Memorial (??????????????????????????????????????????????????????). The monument was built by the Fine Arts Department in 1990 near the Royal Reception Pavilion in front of Wat Ratchanadda on Ratchadamnoen Klang. The bronze statue, half larger than life size, is seated on a throne. The surrounding area is decorated with beautiful plants, with the Royal Reception Pavilion and three minor pavilions known as Sala Rai nearby Free.  edit

• Mae Toranee Statue.  edit

• Mahakan Fort.  edit

• Monument to the Expeditionary Force (??????????????????). Near the Northern corner of Sanam Luang stands a monument to the Thai expeditionary force that fought in the European battlefield during World War I. After war broke out in 1914, Thailand joined the Allies to declare war on Germany and sent militia to Europe on June 20th, 1918. Upon their return to Thailand on September 21st, 1919, the ashes of dead veterans were taken to be enshrined here on September 24th, 1919. Free.  edit

• Pig Memorial.  edit

• Rommaninat Park (??????????). Park 5AM-8PM, daily, Museum Th-Sa 8:30AM-4:30PM. This public park is built on the old prison grounds on Mahachai Road near Wat Suthat. The Corrections Museum inside the park displays instruments of punishment and evolution of punishment in Thailand. Free.  edit

• Sanam Luang (????????, Royal Grounds), (North of the Grand Palace). A vast open ground situated near the northern wall of the Grand Palace and the eastern wall of the former Viceroy Palace or Wang Na. At the time when Bangkok was first established, the ground was a rice field and was sometimes used as a location for a royal crematorium, "Phra Men" in Thai. The ground was, thus, otherwise called as 'Thung Phra Men' which means the crematorium ground. In considering that the name was inauspicious, King Rama IV had the ground renamed as 'Thong Sanam Luang', or the Royal Ground, and the rice farming there ceased. Later, King Rama V had the Wang Na's eastern wall demolished and the area of Sanam Luang enlarged to cover a total of 78 rai as it still does today. The place has been used as the crematorium ground for kings, members of the royal family and nobility, in addition to being a royal sporting ground. The king also had 365 tamarind trees planted around it. Sanam Luang is also Bangkok's equivalent of 'Speaker's Corner' where the people often get together and debate the state of current politics. The grounds have, over recent history, been used as a location for political rallies and demostrations. On the King's birthday (December 5th) literally a million people come to celebrate the birthday of HM the King. At night, a flee market is held around it. Free.  edit

• Saranrom Park, Sanam Chai Rd (Across the Grand Palace). 5AM-8PM, daily. A lush garden created around a lake and home to glasshouses, ancient trees and wooden pagodas. A great place to relax and escape the heat. The park was originally a royal garden in the Saranrom Palace. At the south end of the park is a marble monument dedicated to HM Queen Sunantha Kumareerat and HRH Prince Kannaporn Phetcharat, who died in a boating accident in the reign of King Rama V.  edit

• Bank of Thailand Museum (?????????????????????????????), Samsen Rd (Inside the Bang Khun Phrom Palace within the same compound as the Bank of Thailand), ? 0 2283 5286, 0 2283 6723. M-F 9:30AM-12AM, 1:30PM-4:30PM, contact the museum at least one week in advance. The museum building is one example of the fine architecture of the same art style built by King Rama V to be a royal residence of HRH Prince Boriphat Sukhumphan, his 33rd son born with Queen Sukhuman Marasi. After 1932, the palace was used as a governmental office for a certain period until 1945 when it became the Bank of Thailand. It turned into the Bank of Thailand Museum in 1982, accommodating 14 rooms on 2 floors. Floor 1 houses rooms of ancient coins, the Phot Duang or Thai bullet coins, modern Thai coins and banknotes, golds and foreign currency. Floor 2 houses rooms of the 60th anniversary of the Bank of Thailand, banknote printing, and several others. Free.  edit

• King Prajadhipok Museum (???????????????????????????????????????????), (At the preserved building of the Public Works Department at the foot of Phan Fa Lilat Bridge at the corner of Lan Luang Rd), ? 0 2280 3413-4, 0 2280 3445-6, [6]. Tu-Su, hols, 9AM-4PM. The building is of King Rama VI's ? King Rama VII's neo-classic architecture built in 1906. It was renovated by King Prajadhipok's Institute to serve as a museum exhibiting a rare collection of King Rama VII's personal belongings as well as photographs, documents and biography of Thailand's first constitutional monarch. It has become the first perfect monarchic museum, using modern technology in giving explanations and guidance. Significant events and stories relating to King Rama VII are also exhibited including the succession to the throne, the king's biography before his accession to the throne, royal activities, political reform, promulgation of the constitution, royal utensils and memorabilia, as well as his life after abdication and death in the United Kingdom. The demolished Sala Chaloem Krung Theatre which used to stand in the nearby area is imitated with old films being projected. 40 baht.  edit

• Museum of Siam (????????????), (Near Wat Pho), ? 02 225 2777, [7]. Tu-Su 10AM-6PM. This is renovated from the old building of the Ministry of Commerce of Thailand. It turned into a permanent exhibition about the history of the Thai nation, its culture and history. It's a so-called 'discovery museum', in which visitors can play and interact with the objects shown. 150 baht.  edit

• National Museum (????????????????????? ??????), Na Phra That Rd (Between Thammasat University and the National Theatre, opposite from Sanam Luang), [8]. W-Su 9AM-4PM, hols closed. Another former royal palace dating to the same period as the Grand Palace, the grounds are attractive in parts, but a bit sprawling and difficult to navigate without a guide. The permanent exhibits are a mixed bag - there are some terrific new displays and dioramas on Thai history, but many other buildings are dusty collections of artifacts without much by way of explanation. Allow a full afternoon to see this one. 200 baht.  edit

• National Museum Silpa Bhirasri Memorial. M-F 9AM-4PM, Sa-Su closed. Museum dedicated to the "father of modern art" of Thailand, the Italian professor Corrado Feroci. He is also the one who founded Silpakorn University, the best art and humanities school of Thailand.  edit

• National Gallery (????????????????????? ??????), Chao Fa Rd (North of Sanam Luang), [9]. W-Su 9AM-4PM, hols closed. Housed in the former Royal Thai Mint and fairly small and compact, the permanent displays here are quite unimpressive, but the ever-changing modern art exhibitions can be considerably more interesting. Oil paintings by the King are also exhibited here. Admission 200 baht, even when there's no special exhibition.  edit

• The Queen's Gallery. This privately funded gallery hosts exhibitions on Thai contemporary art. There is also a reading room.  edit

• Silpakorn University Art Gallery. The exhibitions for show here are created by students, teachers and university artists. Free.  edit

One of the best activities in Rattanakosin is simply to walk around and enjoy the historic sights the district has to offer. The Grand Palace is a good place to start. You can also hire a green "Bangkok Bike" and cycle the Rattanakosin Bicycle Route. Rental places are scattered over the district, such as at Sanam Luang, Tha Tien Pier and near the tourist office under the Pinklao Bridge. Officials will photograph your passport and you can cycle the route till 5PM. Be very careful of traffic though, and do not leave the designated route (as it is the only route with bicycle paths).

• National Theatre, 2 Rachini Road, ? 0 2224 1342 or 0 2222 1092. You might want to attend the National Theatre, where you might come across a traditional dance or a classical performance. Don't expect an English language production though, as most shows are set up for the locals. Don't forget to get your hand on the programme, as it will give a synopsis of what the play is about. Also you're supposed to stand up when the national anthem begins.  edit

• Ratchadamnoen Stadium, Ratchadamnoen Nok Rd. When the locals want entertainment, they head to the stadium for some Thai boxing! Or Muay Thai, as the Thais call it. For foreigners it's a lot more expensive though, expect to pay 1000 baht for a basic seat.  edit

• Silpakorn University, 31 Na Phra Lan Rd (across the street from the Grand Palace), [10]. As Thailand's foremost institution in the fine arts, there are many buildings and small museums dedicated to showcasing artworks by students.  edit

• Thammasat University, 2 Phra Chan Rd (next to the National Museum), [11]. The main campus of one of Thailand's most prestigious universities, alma matter of many of the nation's politicians and businessmen. It is noticeably more modern than neighboring Silpakorn University and is worth a walk around campus, particularly on a school day.  edit

• The International Buddhist Meditation Centre (?????????? Wat Mahathat), 3 Maharat Road (Near Chang Pier, inside section 5 of Wat Mahathat), ? +66-2-623-6325, [12]. daily 7AM-10AM, 1PM-4PM, 6PM-8PM. This old temple was built in the reign of King Rama I. Located on Na Phrathat Road near Silpakorn University, the temple houses Mahachulalongkorn Buddhist University, one of the two highest seats of Buddhist learning in Thailand. Most interesting are the meditation classes for foreigners given three times a day. Attendance is free of charge, but donations are welcome. Free.  edit

• Wat Pho Massage School. To register for Wat Pho's famous Thai massage course, you'll need 2 x 2" passport photos and a photocopy of your passport. These photos are bigger than UK passport photos (which are not accepted). The Kodak shop on the corner of the Thai Massage Registration Office, Soi Penphat 1, Maharaj Rd, can supply the photos and has a photocopier, but the photos can take a few hours, so go the day before. Tell the Kodak man that the photos are for the Thai massage certificate - he has a jacket you can wear to look smart. The Thai massage school will reject photos if you are wearing a skimpy top or do not look tidy. The basic course (8,700 baht) is pretty comprehensive and lasts 5 days. They'll put you in a separate English speaking classroom where the instructors have a fair grasp of English. They know their stuff and justify their reputation of being the home of Thai massage. Prepare for an Asian style of teaching - they teach you what to do without often explaining the reasons why, however if you question them, they will tell you. It is best to study 5 days consecutively, but there is scope for having a break in the middle - you do not need to book months in advance. You can start the day you register. Lunch is provided for 30BHT and is of good quality, but can be low on quantity if there are lots of students. All you need to bring for the course is comfortable clothing - be prepared to remove body jewellery. The Thai massages are conducted with you wearing all your clothes. At 8AM in NE corner of Wat Pho, the massage school teach Thai Yoga. This is free to attend, you do not need to pay an entrance fee to get into the Wat Pho courtyard if you are a massage student.  edit

With all the glitzy shopping malls in Square, shopping in Rattanakosin is more what you would expect from traditional Thailand. Just like Khao San Road, street markets are virtually everywhere, but they are much more authentic in Rattanakosin. Plenty of tourists roam around the area, but you will notice that most street markets are actually set up for the locals, so a phrasebook might come in handy.

The Tha Phra Chan Market is a small clothes market. Most t-shirts have a kind of postmodern pop art style, which are popular with local art students. There are also traditional women clothes, sneakers, accessories and the like. For food, there budget restaurants inside the pier building, where you can sit right beside the Chao Phraya river for 50 baht a meal. These are mostly used by locals, so bring a phrasebook. Another indoor area can be reached from Mahathat Road, where you can eat or get some iced chocolate.

An interesting non-food market is the Thewet Pier Plant Market. This pot plant market is along the bank of Khlong Phadung Krung Kaseman. It has plenty of tropical plants for sale, as well as seeds for growing them yourself. You can buy one if you wish, but first check with authorities if you are allowed to import them to your country! Even without actually buying anything, it's still nice to just see this busy market in action.

Expect all these markets to close down at 8PM the latest. That's different with the Sanam Luang Night Market, which is on all the roads surrounding the Sanam Luang Royal Grounds. It starts around 6PM, but only gets interesting after 8PM. It's a bit like a flee market as locals place a blanket on the ground and put used and other old products for sale. Expect toys, statues, pets, mobile phone chargers, remotes, and what have you not. All the sellers place lamps so it's easy to browse around.

• Lang Krasuang (?????????????????). The name literally means "behind the Ministry" and refers to an area behind the Ministry of Defence on Atsadang Road, which runs along Khlong Lot. On sale are military items such as uniforms, territorial defence student uniforms, shoes as well as travelling accessories like tents, sleeping bags and camping pots. There are shops selling musical instruments nearby.  edit

Rattanakosin is probably the best place in Bangkok for buying amulets and other religious paraphernalia. These markets are among the most authentic ones, as they are meant for religious locals instead of masses of tourists. The biggest amulet market of Bangkok is the Wat Ratchanadda Buddha Center with more than 100 stalls selling everything a good Buddhist would need. It is located southeast of Wat Ratchanadda, and can best be accessed from Mahachai Rd. You can find hundreds of tiny Buddha images here, as well as Hindu figures, in all colors, shapes and sizes. If you're on a budget, the Thanon Mahathat Amulet Market near the Grand Palace might be a better option. Along the side of the road are plenty of vendors selling amulets, and you can get one for as cheap as 5 baht! Better looking amulets cost around B20-100, or as much as you want to spend on it.

Bamrung Muang Rd, the road to and from Wat Suthat, has plenty of stores selling religious items. Plenty of 2-meter tall Buddha images for sale here, but don't even think about bringing those on the plane! You can also get item-filled buckets to donate to monks. These buckets contain daily necessities monks might need, such as soap, toothpaste, candles, etc.

During the alms ceremony in the morning of most temples, in which monks receive donations of the people, the monks usually carry big bowls for receiving the donations. These bowls are known as 'bat' and these have been made by hand for centuries. As factories took over the production of these bowls, most of the communities that once made a living of them have vanished. An exception is Ban Bat, "Bowl Village", a small alley near Wat Suthat with a couple of families that still make a living with the handicraft of making these bowls. Don't think this is a very authentic experience though ? locals don't buy these bowls and once an interested traveler walks in, it feels like the hunting season has begun. The producers will follow you even outside the Ban Bat compound. That's why Ban Bat can only be recommended for visitors who are actually interested in buying one of these bowls (which costs a couple of thousand baht).

Compared to the profusion elsewhere in the city, it is appalling how hard it is to find a decent place to eat after having visited the Grand Palace. Most visitors jut grab a quick bite at one of the carts in front of the Grand Palace entrance. Nearby Tha Chang is home to an interesting fruit market with pineapples, durians and bananas for sale, as well as exotic Thai fruits you probably have never heard of before. You might want to drink some coconut juice or get some rambutans if you want something really exotic. If you want to have a full meal for 50 baht, you can just sit on one of the plastic chairs in the middle of the market. There's also an unnamed Chinese restaurant next to 7-11, but as it is mostly visited by locals, you might want to bring a phrasebook.

There's another food market closeby at Tha Tian (near Wat Pho), which is completely focused on seafood. It might seem unappealing at first, but it is a fun walk just looking at the piles of fish lined up. You might want to try some of the dried fish for sale.

Besides simple street markets, there really is not a lot going on in Rattanakosin. For fine dining, Sukhumvit is a better choice, while Yaowarat and Khao San Road offer plenty of budget options. If you're really looking for some mid-range restaurants in Rattanakosin, you might want to head for Trok Nawa near Wat Suthat.

• Elle Tha Pra Chan, 172 Wat Mahathat Rd (from Chang Pier, walk straight forward and take a left into Wat Mahathat Rd and after 100 meters it is on the left-hand side, opposite Silpakorn University), ? +66-2-623-5750. 9AM-5PM daily. This is a typical, but clean, budget restaurant and bakery at the Wat Mahathat Amulet Market near the Grand Palace. The sign is only in Thai, but it's not hard to find. Menus are in English, and have pictures shown with them, so just point to the dish of your choice. It has the typical Thai dishes as well as some Italian ones. Many students from nearby Silpakorn University tend to have lunch together here, so expect it to be very crowded around noon. 70 baht.  edit

• Khao Mu Daeng Trok Nawa, 25 Trok Nawa, ? +66 2 622 0009. M-Sa 8AM-4PM, Su closed. Obviously try the Khao Mu Daeng (rice with roasted pork), the signature dish of this place. B30.  edit

• Mont Nom Sod (Mon Nomsot), 160/2-3 Dinso Rd (on the road between the Democracy Monument and the Giant Swing), ? +66-2-224-1147. 2PM-midnight. This large bakery is specialized in toasted bread with all kinds of stuff on top of it ? such as peanut butter, chocolate, yucca root or other sugary stuff (generally the toppings are VERY sweet though). Don't expect any English to be spoken here as it is meant for locals and quite off the beaten path, but you can just point to the dishes you want. Small bakery with bread, milk and other small snacks. 70 baht.  edit

• Nai Uan Yen Ta Fo, 41 Trok Nawa, ? +66 2 622 0701. M-Sa 9AM-4.30PM, 6PM-10PM, Su closed. Chinese budget restaurant. Try the yen ta fo, noodles with tofu soup and fish balls. B40.  edit

• Po Pia Song Muai, 150 Tanao Rd (Around the corner of Phrang Phuthon), ? +66 2 222 2807. daily 9.30AM-8PM. Try the po pia, fresh Thai-style spring rolls. B50.  edit

• Ch. Pralumlong, Na Phra Lan Rd. Typical Thai dishes here, but you get quite little for the amount paid. Also, the staff seems more busy with their families than with servicing customers. B150.  edit

• Feeling Space, Na Phra Lan Rd. B90.  edit

• Kai Yang Bo Ran, 474-476 Tanao Rd, ? +66 2 622 2349. daily 9AM-8PM. Thai and Isan cuisine. B160-200.  edit

• Mit Ko Yuan, 186 Dinsaw Rd, ? +66 2 224 1194. M-F 11AM-2PM, Sa-Su 4PM-10PM. Thai/Chinese restaurant. B50-170.  edit

• Phai Thong, 39 Fueang Nakhon Rd (Behind Ministry of Interior), ? +66 2 223 9009. daily 11AM-8PM. Thai/Isaan cuisine. B100-500.  edit

• Pot Saphakan, 443 Tanao Rd, ? +66 2 222 2686. M-F 10AM-2PM, 5.30PM-9PM. Generic Thai restaurant. B100-200.  edit

• Ta Chang, 5 Phra Athit Rd (Near the Bangkok Tourist Information Center), ? +66 2 231 527 (sam@tachang.com), [13]. daily 11AM-midnight. Great Western/Thai restaurant with a relaxed view on the Chao Phraya river and it's small garden. Come in for a bite, or for a good coffee - alcohol is also served. Temporarily closed! B150-400.  edit

• Fisherman's Seafood, 1/12 Soi Mahathat, ? +66 2 222 8082, [14]. Luxury seafood restaurant, with daily fresh fish and a nice view over the Chao Phraya river.  edit

• Krisa, Na Phra Lan Rd. daily 8AM-6PM. This cafe with an old Western-style interior is in an ideal location for freshing up after a hike through the Grand Palace. Obviously you can get coffee and tea, but an iced chocolate might be a better choice. For around 50 baht, they also serve simple Thai dishes. B50.  edit

• Na Phra Lan Cafe, Na Phra Lan Rd. M-Sa 10.30AM-10.30PM, Su 10.30AM-6PM. Popular cafe among students from the nearby Silpakorn Art University. At daytime it's a nice place for a coffee, tea or hot chocolate. After dusk, many students come here to drink beer in large amounts. B50.  edit

• Withstand Dawn (???????), Mahathat Rd (Opposite Wat Pho). Professional looking European-style coffeehouse, but without an English sign. Nice place to fresh up after having visited Wat Pho.  edit

Rattanakosin is flowing over with sights, but accommodotion — that's a challenge. Budget guesthouses are clustered on the nearby Khao San Road, while Silom and Sukhumvit offer plenty of upscale hotels. Most travelers go there for the wide availability of accommodation. If you insist on staying over in Rattanakosin, choice is limited, but there are some options available.

• Boonsiri Place, [15]. Located about 5 minutes walk south of Khaosan Road, this hotel is hidden in the back alleys of Rattanakosin. The rooms are very clean, as are the bathrooms. Breakfast selection is very poor, but adequate. Conveniently has a 7 Eleven on the ground floor. B1000.  edit

• Niras Bankoc Cultural Hostel & Coffee, 204-206 Maha Chai Rd (just north of the Maha Chai Rd and Bamrung Muang Rd intersection), ? +66-2-221-4442, [16]. The relaxing hostel is quite handy for most attractions even Khaosan Road. dorm with big comfy bed and large locker 440 baht, basic double room 1200 baht, ensuite 1890 baht.  edit

Rattanakosin has Bangkok's principal tourist sights, but the surrounding districts offer plenty of activities, stores, restaurants and nightlife.

• Wat Arun, at the other side of the river in Thonburi is often visited together with the Grand Palace and Wat Pho. It's only a 3 baht ferry ride from Tha Tien Pier.

• Backpacker's mecca Khao San Road is overloaded with budget guesthouses, 50 baht food stalls and hippy dresses for sale. It can easily be reached on foot.

• Pak Khlong Talat, just across the river in the multicultural Yaowarat and Pahurat district, is a surprisingly fun flower market. It's best visited in the early morning, when new flower batches arrive, or at night, when all the markets are beautifully illuminated.

• The Royal Barges National Museum is just at the other side of the Pinklao bridge in Thonburi.

• Only on weekends, the Taling Chan Floating Market in Thonburi can be reached by bus 79 from Rajdamnoen Klang (near Pinklao Bridge).