Travel - Khabarovsk

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Khabarovsk (Russian: ??????????, khah-BAH-ruhvsk) is a city on the Amur river in the Russian Far East, near the Chinese border. If you happen to run into rainy weather and bore yourself to tears, don't blame us, but you might want to make a conscious effort to stop here. Often overlooked due to its proximity to Vladivostok, Khabarovsk could easily be a highlight in the long line of predominately dull cities along the Trans-Siberian. But while most cities look their best when the sun is out, only in few is the effect as profound as in Khabarovsk ? attractive parks, beaches, outdoor beer tents with live music, pretty girls promenading and classic architecture awaits if the weather gods favour you. Even if you are unfortunate, it's not a loss to go indoors: the city also houses some of the best museums east of Moscow.

Overlooking the confluence of the Amur and Ussuri Rivers, Khabarovsk is the second largest city in the Russian Far East, approaching 600.000 residents and growing. It is also the capital of both Khabarovsk Krai and the Far Eastern Federal District. Unlike Vladivostok, the city has never been closed to foreigners, and retains a distinct international feel, rare for the Russian provincial centers ? a feeling propped up by an increasing Asian presence with arrivals from Asian countries now numbering over a million each year. In turn, Asians come here to experience a piece of Europe close to home, with the fortunate effect that the city is spending huge swaths of money renovating the city, in which old classical buildings were spared much of the destructive effects of the 1917-23 civil war, to provide its visitors with just that feeling. From a European's perspective, Soviet city planning has unmistakeably taken its toll, but it is still far more attractive than your average Siberian city.

The climate is temperate and monsoonal, with a cold, dry winter and a hot and humid summer. The average temperature for a full year is just 2°C, but covers over wide span of monthly averages ranging from a bone chilling ?20°C in January to a quite warm +21°C average in July. The city sees an average of 686 mm precipitation in a year, but unfortunately the lions' share falls in the warm summer months. Climate-wise, June is often the best month for a visit.

The lands near the confluence of the Ussury and the Amur, where today's Khabarovsk stands, have been populated for centuries by the indigenous Tungusic people. Chinese expeditions reached this area as early as the first half of the 15th century, and in the mid-17th century the Amur Valley became the scene of hostilities between the Russian Cossacks, trying to expand into the region, and the rising Manchu Qing Dynasty, bent on securing the region for itself. Nearly a century of skirmishes between the Chinese, Koreans and Cossacks followed, one of those involving Russian explorer Yerofey Khabarov, whose name the city later adapted. The Treaty of Nerchinsk (1689) brought the conflict to a close and made the area an undisputed part of the Chinese Qing Empire. According to French Jesuits mapping the Ussury and the Amur rivers in 1709, the future site of Khabarovsk was known to the Chinese as Yupi Dazi ("Fishskin Tartars").

In 1858, the area was ceded to Russia under the Treaty of Aigun. The Russians founded the military outpost of Khabarovka (??????????), which subsequently became an important industrial centre for the region. The Russian Geographical Society then began founding libraries, theaters, and museums in the growing city. Since then, Khabarovsk's cultural life has flourished. Much of the local indigenous history has been well-preserved in the Regional Lore Museum and Natural History Museum and in places like near the Nanai settlement of Sikhachi-Alyan, where cliff drawings from more than 1,300 years ago can be found.

The Trans-Siberian first reached Khabarovsk from Vladivostok in 1897, while the complete railway to Moscow did not see completion until 1913. Three years later, the Khabarovsk Bridge across the Amur was completed, allowing Trans-Siberian trains to cross the river without using ferries. The city was occupied by the Japanese for much of the Russian Civil War, which may offer some explanation to the many old buildings still standing around the city center.

Khabarovsk Novy Airport (ICAO: UHHH, IATA: KHV) ? Khabarovsk's airport mainly functions as a refueling and emergency landing point for polar flights between North America and Asia. The main carriers in the region are Asiana Airlines, Dalavia (now bankrupt), Vostok Airlines, and Far Eastern Aviation. There are scheduled passenger flights to Khabarovsk from Japan, China, North Korea, South Korea, and Israel. Asiana serves Khabarovsk 3 times/week from Seoul.

Khabarovsk station, listed as Habarovsk 1 in most train schedules, is a major stop on the Trans-Siberian Railway. There are several trains each day bound for Vladivostok (800 km) and Moscow (about 8500 km) along the main Trans-Siberian line. Other options include trains #325 for Tynda or #351 for Komsomolsk and Vanino, all on the Baikal-Amur Mainline. Vanino is an interesting option as it allows ferry connections to Sakhalin and further on to Wakkanai in Japan ? more details in the Russia to Japan via Sakhalin itinerary.

If you want to go to places upstream on the Amur river, the Meteor speedboats will often be your transport of choice, but only during the summer when the river is navigable. However, in 2008, the water level in the river was at a historic low, so that the Meteor traffic had to be stopped. If Meteor traffic functions normally, you can go some 1,000 km downstream to the Ul'chi municipal district (rayon), a region mostly inhabited by indigenous Ul'chi people.

• Fuyuan ? In spring and summer there are daily hydrofoil services to Fuyuan in northeastern China, departing from the ferry terminal facing the Amur river.
• Komsomolsk ? If you are heading for the BAM line up north, an interesting option is to take a hydrofoil cruising up the Amur river to Komsomolsk (6 hours), and catch a train from there.

The best thing to start with is to walk around the center part of city. Have a nice walk from Lenin Square to the Amur River via the main street, Muravieva-Amurski. You will find all sorts of shops and places to eat.

The city has a network of four tram lines (there is no line 3 or 4). The most useful section for visitors is the stretch of the network running from the main railway station along Amursky Boulevard, before making a left turn down Volochaevskaya St. (near the market), and crossing Mureava Amursky Street one block west of Lenina Square, it then continues south intersecting Lenina Street roughly at its halfway point, before a stop at the botanical gardens (Lines 1, 2 & 6). The remainder of the network mainly extends into the sleepy suburbs. Line 5 serves the North, Line 1 and 2 the South along Krasnoreleiskaya St.

There is a fantastic cluster of top notch museums along Shevchenko Street, just behind the tall blue-domed Church of Theotokos on Komsomolskaya Square towards the river and stadium. Not only are the museums some of the best in the far east, they also make their home in some impressive century-old buildings dating back to before the revolution. After a visit, the nice river promenade is just a short walk away, so you can wash all that new found knowledge away with some pivos in good company.

• Far East Regional Museum (??????????? ????????????? ?????), 11 Shevchenko St, ? +7 (4212) 312 054, [1]. 10AM?6PM. One of the oldest museums in the Russian far east, laid out in 6 sections in an impressive 1894 red-brick building. For the most part it's leaps and bounds ahead of the region's other museums, and with nearly half a million artifacts in the collection, they can afford to be picky about what they display. The ethnographic section with displays of indigenous cultures from around the Amur is unusually informative, but the zoology section is also worth a look, stuffed animals galore! To top it off, it has actually seen some substantial renovations lately, and they even have some English captions here and there! Well worth the 140 rubles.  edit

• Far Eastern Art Museum (??????????????? ?????????????? ?????), 7 Shevchenko St, ? +7 (4212) 328 338. Tu?Su 10AM?5PM. Established in the thirties and now housed in the building of a former officers' club. Them seem to take most pride in their collection of Far Eastern aboriginal art, but they also have a rare collection of ancient Russian religious icons and Japanese porcelain. In the classic exhibition they have a few painters you may have heard of like Titian and Garofalo, but also some lesser known Russian masters. Foreigners 150 rubles.  edit

• Far Eastern Military Museum (??????-???????????? ????? ???), 20 Shevchenko St (across from the Art Museum), ? +7 (4212) 326 350. Tu?Su 10AM?5PM. Another impressive building from the turn of the 20th century, this one was the state bank up until the 1930s. Weapons galore propped up by medals and other memorabilia. If you are not interested in these sort of things, you can probably give it a miss, but they have a few cool war propaganda posters from the Great Patriotic War and a luxury officers' railway carriage from the twenties in the courtyard, if you need to entertain yourself for a while while any male company goes into boy mode.  edit

Tugged away just across the next street behind the military museum, you also find the Archeology Museum on Turgeneva street.

• Museum of Archaeology (??????????? ????? ??????????), 86 Turgeneva St, ? +7 (4212) 324 177, [2]. Tu?Su 10AM?5PM. Part of the regional museum but located in a attractive separate building which, before the October revolution got him, was owned by the owner of a local brewery. Finds from the dawn of man up until the middle ages. Their collection of ancient ceramics is interesting, and the Sikachi-Alyan petroglyphs and Sheremetyevsky inscription replicas are also worth a look.  edit

• Far Eastern Railway Museum (????? ??????? ??????????????? ???????? ??????), 40 Vladivostokaya St, ? +7 (4212) 383 035, [3]. M?F 9AM?5PM. A small museum which houses a previously private collection of around 2000 original artifacts, documents, models and photographs telling about the history and construction of the Far Eastern Railway.  edit

• Fedotov Exposition Hall (??????????? ??? ????? ????????), 47 Karla Marksa St, ? +7 7(4212) 211 154. Temporary exhibitions of professional painters, sculptures, designers and other artists from the far east. The exhibits changes monthly.  edit

• Geological Museum (????????????? ????? ??????????), 15 Lenin St, ? +7 (4212) 215 370. 10AM?6PM. Housed in a beautiful 19th century building, once belonging to a prominent local merchant family. True to its name, this museum has a huge collection of rocks and minerals ? some even some from outer space, like a few moon fragments brought home to Earth by automatic probes and one of the world's largest iron meteorites which crashed into the Sikhot-Ailin mountains in the forties. If you are not into stones, you could check out the small section on tools and equipment related to prospecting in the region or the collection of prehistoric plant and animal fossils. Outside the museum there are a few large monoliths of minerals, ores and rocks.  edit

• Khabarovsk City History Museum (????? ??????? ??????????), 85 Lenina St (Exit Dynamo park to the east and walk along the Platinium Arena turn right when the road ends until Lenina St), ? +7 (4212) 412 706. Actually the youngest museum in town, only opened in 2004. A small museum which details the history of Khabarovsk from its inception up until today. Covering the pre-revolutionary period, the October Revolution and the civil war in Khabarovsk, the city during World War II, and up until the Perestroika and modern Khabarovsk. The collection is mainly made up of everyday items, photographs and documents from private donations. Foreigners 300 rubles.  edit

• The Arboretum (??????????? ?????????), 71 Volochaevskaya St, ? +7 (4212) 22 34 01. May-Oct, advance reservations required. Founded in 1896 as a experimental laboratory, it was transformed into an a 12 hectare (27 acre) botanical garden in the thirties. It's a nice place for a stroll among the many trees, bushes and flowers, about 800 different kinds of them gathered from nearly every continent; some exotic medical plants also grow here.  edit

• Cathedral of the Transfiguration (Spaso-Preobrazhensky Cathedral, ?????????????? ???????????? ?????), Lenina St. Christianity is alive and well in Russia, as this golden domed church towering above Khabarovsk is evidence of. Only completed in 2004, at 83 meters it's the 3rd tallest church in all of Rusia - inside it's not that impressive, just large. The monastery, or rather the Theological Seminary, right next to it is also worth a look a brief look from the outside. Opposite, facing the Amur is a war memorial "?????? ?????" ("the eternal flame"), rather kitschy but has good Amur views. The whole thing is labeled as the Ploshchad Slavy or the Square of Glory.  edit

• Dynamo Park (???? ??????), 62 Karla Marksa St (South side of Karla Marksa St, just north of Lenina square). A quite attractive park spreading over 30 hectares, immensely popular with locals on sunny days. The water ponds to the south are popular for splashing and cooling down. There are several nice, quirky statues cut from huge wooden logs dotted all over the park which can be interesting to trace down in a small treasure hunt for adults. There are also a handful of running amusements, cafés and beer gardens. Just across the street from the eastern entrance, Khabarovsk's local ice-hockey team battles it out in the premier Russian league in the Platinum arena.  edit

• Vsevolod Sysoyev Far Eastern Zoo (??????????????? ??????? ????????? ??? ????????), 25 Pervomaiskaya St (Way out in the northern suburbs, bus number 8 all the way to the end), ? +7 (4212) 647-556. Daily 10AM-6PM. Opened only in 2002, this smallish zoo have around 40 different species, mostly regional fauna like Ussuriysk bears and tigers and the Far Eastern Leopard.  edit

In addition to these listings there are also a Drama Theatre and a Childrens 'Theatre, but they are probably not of much interest unless you speak Russian. None the less, the city has a fairly vibrant cultural life.

• City Beach (?????????? ????). Pictured on the right, the beach on the River Promenade just below the cathedral is hugely popular on warm summer days and packed with sunbathers ? so much so that it's easy to forget you are over 300 km away from the nearest piece of coast. It is possible to take a quick dip, but stay very close to land as the current is strong, and keep in mind there are old world Chinese and Russian industries upstream. Usually there are some inflatable slides set up for kids.  edit

• Gadara Childrens' Park (??????? ???? ??. ???????), 2 Leo Tolstoy St. A small amusement park opposite the large Dynamo park to the north of the center. Mainly amusements for kids, with a small roller-coaster, bouncy castles, swings etc., and a few cafés for eating. Most interesting if you have kids, but there is a gaming arcade at the north end with a bowling alley, slot machines and fusball tables for the more grown up.  edit

• Khabarovsk Circus (??????????? ????), 120 Krasnorechenskaya St (Gagerin Park), ? +7 (4212) 365 622. Performances: F 16; Sa-Su: 12 & 16. Khabarovsk Circus had a brand new home constructed a few years back, in a impressive building in Gagerin Park. There will usually be guest performances from all over Russia or even China, as well as from a range of circus animals ? including of course, bears. 60 rubles.  edit

• Theatre of Musical Comedy (??????????? ??????? ??????????? ?????), 64 Karla Marksa St (in Dynamo Park), ? +7 (4212) 227 021, [4]. The oldest theatre in Khabarovsk Krai performs classical and modern operettas as well as occasional comedies in a huge bombastic building in Dynamo park. The massive 900 seat hall is also the city's main concert venue.  edit

• Triada Pantomime Theatre (????? ????????? ??????), 27 Lenina st, ? (4212) 31 31 81, [5]. Established in the waning days of the Soviet Union, this institution has outlived communism, and is still going strong after 30 years. The name is from the Greek word for trinity, meant to signify the three purposes of Pantomime: to laugh, cry and excite, all done through simple entertaining shows that are often meant to convey a deeper philosophical idea. Besides pantomime shows, they also play comedic clown acts and traditional theatre. The hall seats around 90 people.  edit

• Ice Fantasy Festival (??????? ????????), ? +7 (4212) 628 088 (order@feic.ru), [6]. Annual ice sculpting competition that has been held in January every year since 2001. Attracts some of the sculptors from the much grander and more famous Harbin festival. Worth a look if you're in town.  edit

The Vyborg Market (????????????? ???????? ????? "??????????") on Vyborgskaya Street is a huge and very lively market, with not only local Russians but also a visible example of the proximity to China ? many Chinese traders selling imported products of every variety under the sun, e.g. domestic appliances, toys, cutlery and clothing, from from their home country. There is also a couple of huge indoor halls with locals selling fruits, vegetables and meat. It's well worth a stroll, even if you don't plan on buying anything. Open 9AM?7PM.

• The Central Department Store (??? - ??????????? ????????? ?. ??????????), 23 Muraveva-Amur St (About halfway between Lenina Sq. and the cathedral), ? +7 (4217) 304 195. 9AM-8PM. 3 floors of high-end shopping in a nice old building, renovated inside out a couple of years back, but it's actually the oldest business in the city. Fashion, electronics, watches, perfumery and other stuff along those lines. Also has a ATM that takes international credit cards.  edit

• Hudozhestvennye Salony (?????????????? ?????), 15 Muravyov-Amursky St, ? +7 (4212) 311 921. 10AM-7PM. Means "Art salon", all Russian handicrafts slightly cheaper than its next door neighbour. Good place to get the ritual Matreshka doll purchase over and done with, since they are good quality here, though certainly not cheap. Also has a good selection of jewelery and Khokhloma items ? a traditional Russian wood painting handicraft, though if you're heading west, you might want to wait for Nizhny Novgorod where they originate.  edit.

• Tainy Remesla (????? ???????), 17 Muravyov-Amursky St, ? +7 (4212) 327 385. 10AM-7PM. Inside the impressive old city Duma building (see picture above) is probably the best place in town to buy souvenirs, but bring a pair of pants with deep pockets, because you'll need them to buy most of what you see in the shop; art works by the far east's aboriginal peoples, Khokhloma goods, art, jewelery, stone and amber handicrafts and even toys.  edit

The local cuisine consists primarily of traditional Russian restaurants and different Asian-style places. Italian food is also common. However, there's a great variety of cheap fast-food outlets on the streets. Prices start from $3 for good snack to $5-10 at the Golden Bird fast food chain. Meals in small restaurants are available for $10-20. If money is not a concern, you can dine with a view of sunset and the Amur River at Hotel "Inturist" for $50-100.

• Café Utyos (???? ??????), 15 Shevchenko St, ? +7 (4212) 399 774. The name means The Cliff in Russian, very appropriate as the restaurant is located in an unusual art nouveau building from the forties on top of the tall cliff dominating the waterfront, which used to be a lifeboat station. It has a large balcony with spectacular views of the Amur, beneath which the restaurant spreads out over two floors serving Japanese and western fare. A bit on the expensive side and the food leaves something to be desired, though dining with a grand view is the draw here. Mains 800-1500 rubles.  edit

• Chilly (????), 23 Leningradskaya St, ? +7 (4212) 391 919, [7]. Steaks, fish, fajitas, burritos and tacos can be washed down with tequilas at the bar, while watching Russians wearing sombreros doing the Mariachi and scantly clad (but fairly decent) girls doing latin showdance. It can all seem a bit tacky, but hey, that's what tequilas are for, drink a few and you might end up enjoying yourself. Mains 400-1500 rubles.  edit

• Chocolate, 74 Turgeneva St. (near the cathedral), ? 420 097. A stylish, modern looking cafe-like eatery with an international menu, cappuccino, and free wireless access.  edit

• R-Cafe, 52 Pushkina St (On Lenin square), ? +7 (4212) 610 233, [8]. Daily 10AM-midnight. Stylish café designed by a Moscow architect. An expansive fusion-esque menu, but they actually pull off most of the dishes quite nicely. Also works if you want a drink, although it's on the expensive side with mains going for 700-2000 rubles.  edit

• Scalini, 18 Muravyov-Amurskiy St., ? +7 (4212) 305 837. Pricey but good Italian restaurant, though the service might wind up feeling a bit pretentious out here in the far east.  edit

• The Old Tower Café (???? ?????? ?????), 2A Moskovskaya St, ? +7 (4212) 227 523. 10AM-2AM. Fitted into a nice old water tower, this place is very local, but gets points for the good atmosphere you are rewarded with after walking up the many stairs.  edit

• Russki Restaurant (??????? ????????), 9 Ussuriiski Blvd, ? +7 7 (4212) 306 587, [9]. noon-1AM. Russki means Russian, and that is exactly what you can expect; cozy if tacky decór - Datcha (log cabin) style, complete with a Banya (costs extra), the waiters are dressed in Russian national clothes, and one of the four halls usually has live Russian folk music. Even if that's not your thing, you can't hold anything against the food: expect tasty classic Russian fare like blinis, patties, borscht, or the good sizzling sturgeon or meat served on warm stones. All can be washed down with tea from the samovar. 600-900 rubles.  edit

Locals will happily teach you how to drink Russian-style. People are very friendly, and in general you will find lots of locals who would love to practice their English. Don't miss an offer to visit a Russian "banya" (sauna) somewhere outside the city.

For the most part you should avoid the pubs and bars if weather permits, and indulge in the many beer tents instead. The River Promenade (?????????? ??????????) below the large cathedral is a lively place in the summer months, open air cafes in large tents, dot the promenade along the river. Most bars play different styles of music, and there is usually live music going on in one of the tents. Young crowd, and some establishments stay open till very late. This is also the starting point for a host of river boats, taking the party going crowd on short cruises down the river with loud music banging out the speakers. Dynamo Park (???? ??????) also has some beergarten style watering holes along long benches beneath coloured lanterns and Russian schlagers blasting out the speakers.

• Hospital, 3B Muravyov-Amurskiy St., ? +7 (4212) 448 427, [10]. Hottest club around, but getting in will usually prove tricky if you are not a "member", though it is doable ? especially if you are a English speaking westerner.  edit

• Neba Nightclub (????), 46 Turgenev St, 5th floor, ? +7 (4212) 613 959, [11]. Nebo (Sky) was a popular and spacious up-scale 3 floor club, with a large dance floor on the ground level. Authorities shut it down along with hundreds of other clubs following a deadly nightclub fire elsewhere in Russia. Owners are working hard on reopening as Neba (Heaven), but when authorities will give the go ahead remains to be seen.  edit

• Rio (?????? ???? ?????), 49 Lenina St, ? +7 (4212) 238 420. W 9PM?4AM, Th?Sa 9PM?6AM, Su 9PM?3AM. If the weather is bad you can try this place, a large club with multiple floors, but the atmosphere leaves a bit to be desired ? think caged dancers and all that jazz. cover charge 100-200 rubles.  edit

• Sense Café (???? Sense), 22a Postysheva St, ? +7 (4212) 452 010. Cafe which serves a descent coffee, and also works if you want a bite, all while you browse their free wifi. Sometimes there is live music to accompany your drink.  edit

• Velicano (?????? ???? ?Velicano?), 67A Zaparina St, ? +7 (4212) 326 390. Th & Su 9PM?3AM, F?Sa 9PM?6AM. It's a bit Russian, but nice nonetheless. Two dance floors and competent bartenders. Cover charge 150?350 rubles.  edit

The Pacific National University [12], formally a Polytechnic Institute, is now a full fledged university, with over 21.000 students enrolled. Has a single Masters programme in Computer Sciences in cooperation with a German university, which is taught in English.

The Far Eastern State University of Humanities [13] offers a summer course in Russian language in July as well as courses during the academic year.

No hostels and not many unrenovated Soviet rooms, so accommodation is pretty steep ? on the other hand, the situation is not much different from the rest of Russia. If the situation is desperate and you have a valid ISIC card, you could try to see if the university will hook you up with a room in their dorms ? though call ahead instead of showing up on the day. If not, rooms can go as low as 1000 rubles (?25) if you look around and book well ahead of arrival.

• Abricol Hotel (????????? ????????), 138 Voronezhkaya St (Bus 6 or 57 from the railway station), ? +7 (4212) 660 000, [14]. About a kilometer north(west) of the railway station on the outskirts of town, offers 28 modern rooms within a larger entertainment complex which also includes a restaurant, two bars, billiards, a bowling alley and a sauna/pool. 1500-5000 rubles.  edit

• Ali Hotel (????????? ?????), 17 Mukhin St, ? +8 (4212) 217 888. Is an up-scale (5 star) choice with 24 rooms overlooking the city ponds. Has a swimming pool, casino and fitness facilities. 11.000-16.000 rubles.  edit

• Amur Hotel (????????? ??????), 29 Lenina St, ? +7 (4212) 221 223, [15]. Classic building on Lenina street, though it lost some of it grand old-world charm when it was renovated back in 2005, and the 78 rooms are for the most part very kitschy. 1250-3900 rubles.  edit

• Intourist Hotel (????????? ??????????), 2 Amursky Blvd, ? +8 (4212) 326 507, [16]. 283 rooms divided into singles, doubles and triples, all have air condition and Sat-TV. Big, Bombastic and Soviet in appearance, but at least the service has much improved since those days, though you may still find it lagging compared to Western standards. Accepts major international credit cards. 2500-6000 rubles.  edit

• Parus Business Center Hotel (??????-????? ?????), 5 Shevchenko St, ? +7 (4212) 327 270, [17]. Possibly the best located hotel in town, though the noise from the river promenade is reported to sometimes get disturbing for those of the 82 rooms which are facing the Amur river. Unusually for Russia parts of the hotel are located in a classic pre-soviet brick building, and the rooms are spotless in the new wing. On-site Bar, Spa/Sauna, Restaurant and conference/meeting facilities. 3500-5500 rubles with suites going up to 16.000 rubles.  edit

• Zarya Hotel (?????? ?????????), 16/81 Vladivostokskaya St, ? +7 (4212) 327 075, [18]. Some of of 62 rooms used to be cheapies, but they've all been renovated, so don't count on that any more. On the other hand, the rooms are really nice for the price range. It's a bit away from the centre, but not too far from Dynamo Park and the railway station, and there is a free internet cafe (requires key) for paying guests. The young staff is lovely and unusually helpful, the old staff acts like you're a western spy. 2200-5800 rubles.  edit

The General post office at 28 Muravyov-Amurskiy St has around 20 computers with internet access called Internet Mir (???????? ???) for 50 rubles per hour, entry is to the right of the main entrance. If you plan on calling anyone, Khabarovsk is UTC +10 (or 7 hours ahead of Moscow).

• Chinese Consulate General (??????????? ??????????? ????????? ???????? ??????????), Lenin Stadium, ? +7(4212)328390 (gcchina@gcchina.khv.ru, fax: +7(4212)649094), [19].  edit

• Japanese Consulate General (??????????? ??????????? ??????), 46 Turgenev Street, ? +7(4212)413044 (jp-consul@sovintel.ru, fax: +7(4212)413047), [20].  edit

• Dalgeo Tours (??????? ????), 78 Turgenev St, ? +7(4212)318830 (postmaster@dalgeo.khv.ru), [21]. 9.00 - 17.00. One of the best organized travel agencies in the Russian far east, has English, Chinese and Japanese speaking staff available. Can assist with train tickets, ferry bookings for 700 RUB, and organizing Visas. Also hosts a range of local tours.  edit

If you like hunting or fishing than there are plenty of things to offer. Join professional hunters for ride on Himalaishian bear or have great time fishing in mountains with no one 50 km around. Where else you can do it??

• Bogorodskoye (???????????) The district centre of Ul'chi rayon, should be reachable within one day on the Meteor boat. However, be prepared that getting back is harder than getting there. Whereas you can easily book your ticket downstream in Khabarovsk, return tickets are available only on the vessel itself, they are sold on a first come - first serve basis. Bogorodskoye is starting to develop eco tourism. To get to the surrounding villages, you need to hire a boat, as many of them are accessible only through waterways. Please be respectful to the indigenous peoples, which have gone through a long history of marginalisation and oppression and many of whom still live in deep poverty nowadays. If you want to know more about indigenous cultures, you can also try to contact the Association of indigenous small peoples of Khabarovsk Kray, which has its office in the city of Khabarovsk, please look here [22] for their current contact (search for "?????????").

• Sikachi-Alyan (??????-????) A national village inhabited by indigenous Nanai people, located some 70 km upstream on the Amur river. Close to the village you can find old petroglyphs, carved into stones on the banks of the amur, dating back some 20,000 years. If you don't find them, you might ask in the village for advise. Everyone should know them. Sikachi-Alyan also has a little museum, where you can learn much about indigenous culture, including shamanism, history and of course about the petroglyphs. However, you should probably know Russian or have an interpreter.

• Sakhalin (???????) - Khabarovsk is an important transfer point between the Trans-Siberian Railway and the railway line to Vanino, where ferries shuttles passengers across the Tartar strait to the fascinating Sakhalin island. From there you can continue your journey onwards to Japan with a weekly ferry in summer.

Routes through Khabarovsk

Irkutsk ← Birobidzhan ←

W  E

→ Ussuriysk → Vladivostok