Travel - Nong Khai

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Nong Khai (???????) is a city in Northern Isaan. The city lies on the western bank of the Mekong River, only 20 km from Vientiane, the capital of Laos.

Nong Khai is a sleepy Thai town with strong Lao influences, and is home to small Chinese and Vietnamese communities as well.

Most locals speak both Thai and the local dialect called Isaan, which is closely related to both the Thai and Lao languages. Many locals speak a little bit of English, mostly tourism-related words, and are generally very friendly and helpful if you smile and are polite.

The nearest airport (on the Thai side) is in Udon Thani, 56km away. There are direct shuttle buses four times a day between the airport and the Friendship Bridge (2km outside Nong Khai), plus taxis and minibuses that will take you in to Nong Khai proper.

Thai Airways and Air Asia operate flights between Bangkok (Suvarnabhumi) and Udon Thani. Nok Air operates a service between Bangkok (Don Muang) and Udon.

Nong Khai is the terminus of the Northeastern railway line from Bangkok via Khon Kaen and Udon Thani. The trip takes 10-12 hours and a first class sleeper ticket from Bangkok to Nong Khai or vice versa is currently about 1200 baht, and a second class sleeper ticket (not bad for the price) is 748 baht ($21.43 USD as of Jan 2009). Sleepers often sell out at peak times so you may need to book in advance.

Shuttle services now operate onward from Nong Khai to Tha Nalaeng, Laos (near Vientiane) four times a day, synced to the arrivals and departures of the Bangkok trains. You can only buy tickets at Nong Khai station, and you need to pass through immigration as well. (If coming in on train #69 from Bangkok, there's a 90-minute window to do this.) Once the formalities are done, the trip itself across the Friendship Bridge only takes 15 minutes. Visa on arrival is now available on the Lao side

There are departures to Udon Thani at least once per hour from the BKS station on the main drag, Prajak road. The hour-long ride costs 20 baht in 3rd class (non-air con).

There are several departures daily from Bangkok (~9 hours), and across the border direct from Vientiane (55 baht, 17000 kip, two hours) via the Friendship Bridge.

A 1st class bus service connects Nong Khai directly with Suvarnabhumi Airport (the new BKK).

The only mode of public transport in the city is by tuk-tuk. Although the price has gone up recently due to the increased cost of gasoline, they remain inexpensive at 20-30 baht/person to anywhere around the city centre.

Some tuk-tuk drivers will ask for much more than 20-30 baht/person, but you can generally bargain with them to reach a reasonable price. When bargaining, smile and be patient and polite (or just walk down the street until you see a roaming tuk-tuk, which will probably be cheaper - and walking a short distance is sometimes the only way to get a reasonable price when arriving at the Friendship Bridge from Laos).

A trip to or from the Friendship Bridge can cost upwards of 70 baht for tourists if only one passenger is on board.

Another great way to discover Nong Khai and its surroundings is by bicycle. Some guesthouses and several rental places around town offer bicycles (30 baht/day) and motorbikes (200 baht/day). Lower prices can usually be negotiated for longer rentals - try the rental stand outside the Mut Mee guesthouse or at Limmaneemotor on Meechai Road. Go for the one on Meechai Road first, their motorbikes are a lot better and the people there are very nice. You'll need a copy of your passport if you wish to rent one. Very cheap for long term rental.

Nong Khai has one sight that cannot be missed - Sala Kaew Ku (or Sala Keoku, also known as Wat Khaek), located 6km east of Nong Khai on Highway 212.

This utterly bizarre park of massive sculptures (some over 20m tall) is the handiwork of the mystic Luang Pu Bunleua Sulilat, who bought the land in 1978 when he was kicked out of his native Laos - a similar park of his earlier work remains near Vientiane. Synthesizing Buddhism and Hindu ideologies, Buddhas, many-armed goddesses, naga snakes and all sorts of human-animal hybrids dominate the scenery. Entry is 10 baht for thai and 20 baht for foreigners (march 2009).

There is no direct public transport and you might find it a little tricky to get back, so you're best off arranging a return ride with a tuk-tuk (100 baht or so, including the cost of the driver waiting one hour) or hire a motorbike at Limmaneemotor in Nong Khai.

Particularly noteworthy is the Wheel of Life, depicting his theory of the cycle of life; you enter via from a womb-shaped tunnel and walk the circle past statues depicting the stages.

Luang Pu's mummified remains are enshrined on the third floor of the Sala Kaew Ku pavilion itself.

Nong Khai is a charming city to wander around on foot or rented bicycle (30 baht/day) and meet the friendly and helpful locals. It's also a good place from which soak up the Isaan culture of the neighbouring towns, which can easily be reached by bus from the main BKS ("Bor-kor-sor") bus station in the city centre, on Prajak road.

If you expect the usual tourist traps of Bangkok and Phuket, you will be disappointed. There are no superclubs, go-go bars and mega malls to fill your hours. This is a place to chill by the Mekong river watching passenger and cargo boats transit between Thailand and Laos, or to finish that paperback that has been sitting in your luggage for weeks. You may also consider stocking up on travel necessities before trudging on to Laos. Many who have planned an overnight stay for transit means have ended up staying for weeks.

For those interested in Muay Thai boxing lessons on a long-term basis, go to the boxing stadium beside the Grand Hotel and inquire from ex-Muay Thai boxing national champion Arjarn Lart, a friendly local who speaks just enough English to get you by. This is the real deal, so do not expect an air-conditioned gym with cushy floor mats surrounded by ceiling high mirrors.

During the months from January to May when the Mekong river level resides to its lowest, the Jomanee ("Joe-mar-nee") 'beach' appears near the Friendship Bridge, 2km west of town. Food and drink vendors readily provide mats, shade and music for the hundreds of locals - and two or three tourists - who patronise their stalls. An excellent spot to watch the sunset.

When you vist Nongkhai you must get a massage. The one I like is Rungtawan Thai Massage, 1205 Jen Job Thid Road,,Nai Muang Sub-district, Muang District, Nong Khai Province, 43000, Thailand.

If you enjoy a good read then you should visit Hornbill bookshop. It has the best collection of fiction, non-fiction guide books, maps and a growing collection of international titles in Isaan. This book shop is located in the Soi leading to Mut Mee guest house next to 'Cipollino' Italian restaurant. Apart from the great music they play and the internet service the owner has an extensive knowledge about her books and about Thailand in general.

Go fishing at VS Fishing Park, 157/1 M5 Tambolhadkam, Tel: 042-411054 or 086-2425914. 80 baht for the day to fish. 100 baht for days rent of rod, reel and hooks etc. 20 baht for bag of stinky rice for bait. They have a restaurant there also. Fishing competitions held on the first Sunday of each month. All fish have to be returned to the pond after being caught. 20kg carp have been caught here.

Mundo Exchange[1] is a non-profit voluntary organisation that matches volunteers with community development projects in and around Nong Khai. If you have a few days you could try teaching English or learning about environmentally friendly methods used in and around Isaan.

Thai-Experience[2] is a non-profit organisation arranging volunteer vacations and service learning projects in Nongkhai and the Isaan area. Volunteer opportunities include teaching English or computer skills and help at an oprhanage.

Isara [3] is another volunteer organization based in Nongkhai.

Openmind Projects [4] is a locally based volunteer organisation which provides an excellent initial 3 day training to all volunteers and provides placements ranging from teaching English in local schools to more distant placements in Southern Thailand, Cambodia and Nepal, and in eco projects in Thailand and Laos.

Visa Run - Getting a Thai Visa in nearby Vientiane, Lao

• From Nong Khai Bus Station go to Border/Friendship Bridge by Tuk Tuk (50B pp for 2 people)
• Fill your Thai Departure Card (stapled in passport) and exit Thailand
• Take the Bridge Shuttle bus (tickets 15B at ticket stand) to the Lao side
• Get Lao entry application at Window 2. Fill this and include one passport photo
• 35 USD for Lao entry visa [USD available for sale just around corner - much better rate than the 1500B charged if you pay in Thai Bat. Only 50 USD notes available but change will be given in USD. Use it next time you go or spend it in Lao] NB. Different countries have other fees but most are 35 USD. Canada is 42 USD (2010-July)
• Give [completed form, one passport photo and passport] at Window 1
• Wait at Window 3 (just around corner) for passport - your name will be called/passport photo waved around
• You can buy Lao Currency (Lao Kip) at the same window as the USD. The rate has been 254 Kip = 1 THB for a long time now. You can easily use THB in Lao so you don't need to change money
• Proceed past the 'entry fee' kiosks. You will rarely be asked for the 20B entry fee
• Negotiate for an aircon taxi (better than Tuk Tuk) which will take you to the Thai embassy, wait for you, and take you to a hotel of your choice for 150B pp for 2 people. (Tuk Tuks want 200B just to take you to the embassy)
• Thai Embassy open for Visa applications from 08:00 - 12:00
• Return next day from 13:00-15:00 to collect your passport with completed visa (e.g. 60 day Tourist visa) [2010 - Tourist Visas are still free this year]. The same taxi driver will pick you up at your hotel the next day at 12:30 if you agree this with him. Same price
• Arrive at the Friendship bridge (Lao side) by Taxi
• There is a duty free shop across the road
• Fill in your Lao departure card (stapled to your passport) and exit Lao
• Take the Bridge Shuttle bus (tickets 4000 Lao Kip or 15B at ticket stand) to the Thai side
• Get a Thai Arrival card at the kiosk and fill in (at least the arrival half)
• Go to the immigration kiosk and get stamped in to Thailand. Your new Thai visa has just been activated. Check the stamp has the correct duration, just in case (depends on what type of visa you got e.g. 60 days)
• Get a Tuk Tuk to Nong Khai bus station (50B pp for 2 people)

Fin

There are plenty of banks with ATMs in town, in particular on the main drag, Prajak road, and on Meechai road, which is runs parallel and to the north of Prajak road. Some ATMs limit the amount you can take out to 3,000 baht/day. The ones inside Tesco-Lotus near the cashiers allow up withdrawls up to 25,000 baht. The only bank branch open on Saturdays is at the Tesco-Lotus mall. If you stand in front of the main entrance pass the building on the right side and enter near the bookshop. Most ATMs charge 150 baht for overseas cards but the Aeon Bank doesn't - find it in the Tesco Lotus shopping mall near to KFC / adjacent to the MK Restaurant.

The recently renovated Thasadej market is a 500m covered alley market beside the Mekong river, where one can find hand made Thai and Lao products, Chinese teas, cheap (and often low quality) electronics, clothes and a bewildering assortment of other items. It's open daily 08:00-18:00.

South of town on the Udon Thani road is a Tesco-Lotus, a fully-fledged western-style supermarket with satellite shopping arcade and a cinema (nearly always Thai movies or Western movies dubbed into Thai). Nearby on Sunday afternoons/evenings is the Sunday Market, which sells all kinds of things.

You can also buy and sell used books in the HornBill Book Shop, Very good book shop with a great selection of new and used english and international books also has a good selection of travel guides.

• The majority of Nong Khai locals eat out at the dozens of restaurants and bars along the Rimkhong (the riverside road) at the east end of town. Food here is cheaper and often better than in the town centre. English is not always spoken but increasingly Nong Khai restaurants have menus in more than one language.

• There are also many Thai food vendors along Prajak road that sell excellent cheap food.

• Both of the above areas are aimed principally at evening customers, so many eateries don't open until after dark. However, there are a number of Thai (and European) establishments in and around Thasadej market which are open during the day.

• Dee Dee and Thai Thai on Prajak road, the main street in Nong Khai, are two Chinese-style diners right next to one another that serve good Thai and Chinese food. They are open later than most other restaurants.

• Daeng Naem Nueang, along the Mekong on Rim Kong road slightly downstream from 'Warm up' and just upstream from the Tha sadej market, is a Vietnamese restaurant widely acclaimed among Thai and Vietnamese residents of Nong Khai. The staff are friendly, but not all proficient in English, so bringing a Thai friend would help a lot. They also offer pre-made take-away packages of 'naem neuang' (a delicious Vietnamese dish) if you want to eat at home instead.

• Im Im Dim Sum Serving dim sum, noodle, fried snacks, coffee and tea. Located in downtown Nong Khai, Soi Sook Pracha near the PP Sport Centre.

• The most popular bar with young locals is Warm Up, which is located on the Rimkhong (riverside) road west of Thasadej market, and also accessible from the promenade. This area also has the largest concentration of farang bars and guesthouses. And floating on the Mekong river close by, below Wat Hai Sok, is the romantic Gaia Bar [5]

• Another bar with that is popular with locals, expats and tourists is The Funky Monkey Bar situated on Soi Nitapat just off Prajak Road in central Nong khai. Wifi is available free to customers and most sport is shown on the wide screen TV, there is also a 'bring one take one' book exchange where you can find a variety of English language books. There are currently three other bars in this popular soi which has plenty of room for parking cars or motorcycles. [6]

• Ruan Thai Coffee & Breakfast, Rimkhong road (warm up). Run by a very pleasant young Thai woman who does her best to speak English. The prices are a little high, but the food is excellent and the restaurant itself is also quite nice.

• The German Bakery at the corner of Meechai and Haisok has very good bread.

• Cipollino, Soi Mut Mee. A small Italian lunch and evening restaurant, located in the garden next to Hornbill bookshop, a few doors down from Mut Mee guest house...Serving great home style Italian cooking with great pasta's and wonderful deserts,with good portions and very reasonable prices. Tue-Sat 6-9PM.

• Yota Vegetarian Restaurant, on Kaeworawut Rd a few minutes west of Mutmee Guesthouse. Most dishes here have fake meat, sometimes very convincing. About 25 baht per meal. Breakfast and lunch, sometimes dinner (if there's a special occasion).

• Vegetarian Restaurant on the soi just east of the post office. About 25 baht (buffet) or 35 baht (menu) per meal. Not much fake meat here. Breakfast and lunch (till about 3PM or 4PM).

• Sunday Market, on the highway west of the major intersection with the arch (sort of near Tesco Lotus), roughly mid afternoon to sometime in the evening, has plenty of cooked/uncooked food.

• Other markets, including the Chayapone market (between Meechai Rd and Kaeworawut Rd, near the Thai Lao Riverside Hotel), the Wednesday evening market (near the Nongkhai Grand Hotel), the morning market (near the bus station), and the other market near the sunken chedi, also have cooked/uncooked food.

Budget accommodation is of good value, extensive and affordable relative to the other more popular cities of Thailand.

• Mut Mee Guesthouse[7], by the Mekong river west of Thasadej market. Long-established. In a large tree filled garden overlooking the river, it has both simple and higher quality rooms. It has a boat called the Nagarina which cruises on the river at sunset. Mut Mee owns the Gaia bar mentioned above. Yoga & meditation classes are also available.

• Amazon Guesthouse[www.amazon-guesthouse.com], a garden guesthouse. Laid-back but efficient accommodation. Close to the natural park and Mekong River. Has an outdoor lounge area where you can relax with a book and enjoy views of the river.

• Mekong Guesthouse, also by the Mekong river on the bridge side of the market has rather expensive rooms with aircon but they also have a dorm for 150 baht with hot shower and TV. There's a good chance of being the only person in there too.

• Sawasdee Guesthouse, only 5 minutes from the bus station by foot. Situated in an old, colonial style building on a good location you will find single rooms with a fan for 140 baht and double rooms with air-con a few hundred baht more (Jan 2010). The rooms are good and clean, guesthouse has nice communal area and a free wlan. Friendly and helpful owner who can give you lots of tips for getting around. Great value for money.

• Friendship Guesthouse, in the Soi right next to the Sawasdee guesthouse. (402 Meechai Rd), on the left side towards the Mekhong. It's only 10 minutes from the bus station by foot, so save the 20 baht because the guesthouse is a bit expensive, but one of the most beautiful and romantic places in town. A renovated dark-red wooden house set in a lush garden with beautiful double rooms for about 400 baht.

• The Meeting Place[8] is a Western guesthouse/bar/restaurant with rooms from 200-350 baht with air-con. Currently closed for renovation.

• Khiang Khong Guest House, beside the river. A new guesthouse, family run. Good rooms, hot water, comfortable beds.

There has been a recent uptick of violent crime directed at foreigners starting from late 2009. Several foreigners have been assaulted by Thai teenagers without provokation, usually with blunt weapons such as pieces of wood. The crime is concentrated around the Wat Hai Sok area, where at lesat five foreigners have been assaulted as between Jan - May 2010 alone. These assaults have occurred against foreigners walking alone at night. Be aware of your environment, avoid walking at night, and if you must walk at night, do not walk alone.

Although most short term visitors do not seem to notice, some long-term visitors and residents consider the dog problem in Nongkhai very serious, with some residents even averaging about one dog bite per year. Attacks have occurred on major roads and minor sois. The stretch of highway from Tesco Lotus going north up to the major intersection with the arch is particularly bad. Attacks have also occurred on Kaeworawut Rd, One attack occurred in front of a restaurant on the Mekong promenade, in mid-afternoon. (Remember, even poodles can have rabies.) To be safe, always carry a few rocks or something else you can use to scare dogs away. Exercise an even higher degree of caution when walking or cycling (or motorcycle riding) alone, at night, or in a less densely populated area.

Lately, bike thefts and laptop thefts seem to have been on the rise.

• Vientiane ? the capital of Laos, is just across the Mekong, and most visitors can get visas on arrival at the border

• Jom Jang ? a village on the banks of the Mekong river, approximately 18km east of the city

Routes through Nong Khai

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