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Phonsavan (Phonsavanh) is the capital of Xiangkhoang province in Central Laos. It is known primarily as the gateway to the Plain of Jars.

Phonsavanh is the provincial capital of Xieng Khoung province. It was built in the late 1970s and replaced the old Xieng Khoung which had been destroyed during the Second Indochina War. It is located in the centre of the Plain of Jars and has a pleasant climate all year around. The long winding main street of Phonsavanh looks like the setting of a David Lynch inspired Spaghetti Western minus the tumbleweeds. As soon as you leave town the countryside is dominated by green hills and pine forests. Villages consist of colorful wood houses and often raise cattle. You will see more than one Hmong cowboy with brown and violet cowboy hats. During Hmong New Year there are even bullfights in Phonsavanh.

Its most famous attraction is the nearby Plain of Jars, which is nominated for UNESCO World Heritage status. The main economic activity in Phonsavanh is based on government administration, mining companies from China and Australia, tourism and the work of NGOs related to UXO clearance.

Phonsavanh is home to various ethnic groups, such as the Phuan, whose ancestors once founded the kingdom of the same name, the Hmong, which New Years celebrations in Xieng Khouang are famous throughout Laos, and the Khmu and Tai Dam. There is also a minority of Laotian Chinese and Vietnamese as well as some international workers and missionaries from Korea and the USA. Typical local products from Phonsavanh and the surrounding area are natural dyes and textiles each with individual pattern depending on the ethnic group, basketry, mulberry paper umbrellas, spoons made from war scrap or Hmong embroidery. A special drink is Mastake Whiskey made from Hed Wai, a highly valued mushroom from the pine forests of Xieng Khouang.

For general information vist the Provincial Tourism Department near the market, Thalat Nam Ngum, on the road to the airport. xkgtourism@yahoo.com.

Phonsavan's Xiang Khoang Airport (IATA: XKH) fields 4 flights per week to Vientiane.

Lao Airlines offers six flights a week in peak season and four flights in low season. Coming from Nam Ka border, which is open daily from 6:00 ? 18:00. The bus from Vinh leaves four days a week and takes 12 hours, form Hanoi there is one bus per week.

If you are traveling from Vientiane you can either take VIP buses or local buses. The buses leave from the northern bus terminal and take about 10-12 hours. Note: The roads are paved but there are plenty of serpentines. The bus trip from Vang Vieng takes 7-8 hours. Buses run daily from Luang Prabang via Route 13 and 7 and take 8 hours. You could also hire a minivan in either Luang Prabang or Vientiane.

There are plenty of Tuk-Tuks in town, which should cost about 5.000 Kip per person inside Phonsavan. If you need to get outside of town it can get quite expensive, because the Tuk-Tuk driver is calculating his way back. A good way to explore the town and the area around is to rent a bike or motorbike. Also check out the organised tours that can be booked at the tour agents on the main street or often in your hotel or guest-house.

During the Second Indochina War Xiangkhoang was the scene of extensive ground battles and intense aerial bombardment due to its strategic importance. The provinces of Houaphan and Xiangkhoang had been the stronghold of Pathet Lao forces and their Vietnamese allies. The heavy aerial carpert bombardments to neutralize those forces or to drop off unused ordnances after returning from missions in Vietnam turned the Plain of Jars quite literally into the Plain of Scars and the most heavily bombarded areas per capita worldwide. In addition to bombs massive quantities of defoliants and herbicides were dropped.

Evidence of the intense fighting can be seen in the cratered landscape in in war relics such as bomb shells, tanks and military positions. The resourceful locals refashion war scrap into items for everyday use, e.g. spoons in Ban Napia village, vegetable planters, fences, tools, pumps and barbeque fireplaces.

The extent of the bombardment is in particular evident at Ban Khai, 36 km northeast of Phonsavanh and Jar sites 1 and 3; here the landscape is pockmarked with craters. Driving north along Route 7 plenty of creatively modified war scarp used in local architecture catches your eye. In Tajok, a Hmong village along Route 7 (30 km northeast of Phonsavanh), you can discover lots of bomb casings reused as barn pillars, fences and for other uses.

During the war thousands of local residents took shelter in caves and set up hospitals and schools; the army used the caves as well to store weapons and medical supplies. Two major caves are open to the public:

Tham Piu Cave is located 6 km north of Muang Kham. It is one of the tragedies of the so-called Secret War. In 1969 a single rocket fired from an aircraft caused the death of an estimated 374 people who had taken refuge in the cave. Their bones are still buried in the rubble. Directions: Take Route 5 towards Nam Nguen and turn left 3 km from Muang Kham; the paved road ends at the cave.

The Tham Xang Caves are located in a scenic karst area, the caves were used by the revolutionairy fighters. Inside the cave complex they set up a hospital, an arsenal and a medicine depot. Evidence can still be seen. Besides its war history the illuminated residential cave is worth visiting to see its natural beauty. The Hmong community of Ban Ta takes care off the caves and offers a local tour guide service. Directions: The caves are 36km northwest of Phonsavanh. Take Route 7, pass Nong Pet, then in Nam Ka village turn left into a dirt road; follow the signs to Tham Xang until you reach Ban Ta.

Xieng Khouang is widely known for the Phou Bia), its pine forests, deciduous woodlands, rolling hills and grasslands. In the cold season the green hills of the Plain of Jars turn reddish brown giving it a touch of the ?Wild West? with yellow sunflowers and Pointsetta in full bloom. Nam Ngum, the largest river in the province originates from the mountains in Paek District and is one of the major tributaries of the Mekong. Nong Het and Phaxay District in particular offer stunning karst scenery with plenty of caves, cliffs, underground rivers and waterfalls. Visiting the area is very beautiful during peach and orchid tree blossom in February.

Nong Tang Lake. Nong Tang is a large picturesque natural lake flanked by high limestone cliffs. Locals use it for fishing and it is a favorite picnic site. Enjoy the peaceful setting in the local restaurant. Overnight stay is available in a guesthouse along the shore. Nongtang is located 48 km from Phonsavanh on Route 7 going to Phou Khoun.

Hot Springs can be visited in the vicinity of Muang Kham off Route 7. The big hot spring Baw Nyai is 67km from Phonsavanh, has been developed as a resort with bungalows and indoor bathing facilities. You can walk through the forest to the spring source, but swimming in the pool is not possible. The Jar Site of Ban Nam Hom is just a 2km walk away.

Tad Ka Waterfall in Nong Het. This impressive waterfall is surrounded by spectacular limestone karst. The water runs down in cascading steps alternating with steep areas for more than 100 meters and flows all year round. To get to the falls follow Route 7 to Nong Het, at Khang Phaniane Village turn left into a graveled road (100km from Phonsavanh) and drive for about 3km; take the trail to the left and walk about 30 minutes to get to the waterfall. Taking a guide is recommended.

Tad Ka Waterfall in Tajok. The waterfall is located near Tajok village, 32 km north of Phonsavanh. The water flows over several tiers. A spectacular jungle trail winds its way up the waterfall crossing it several times. Tad Kha is a popular picnic spot for locals, especially during the Lao New Year holidays. To get there turn right at the end of Tajok village; follow the road until you see a building to the right. Walk along the ridge and take the right trail down. Local tour companies offer day tours including a picnic lunch and a hike up the waterfall.

Tad Lang Waterfall. Tad Lang is located near Jar site 3 just 700 meters off the road to Ban Nakang cascading down ca. 800 meters. To enjoy its whole beauty follow the trail down to the bottom of the valley. It is a good picnic spot, but because you must cross a river to reach it, access is difficult in the rainy season.

Thathom. Traveling to Thathom, located 130 km south of Phonsavanh, is still an adventure. Driving mainly on dirt roads you pass thick deciduous forests, stands of bamboo, remote villages and cross rivers several times. Thathom offers a gorgeous karst landscape with plenty of rivers, caves and historical sites, but so far, tourist services are scarce. Song thaews (pick-up trucks) leave Phonsavanh daily, but there are no regular trips in the rainy season. Boat services are available once you reach the Nam Xan River going to Oaksan in Bolikhamxay province.

The SOS orphanage in Xieng Khouang was founded 1998 to take care of the manz children who lost their parents in accidents related to UXO. Today 145 children live in 12 family houses. The associated kundergarten and primary school are open to local children. You are welcome to visit the center during office hours Mon - Fri from 8:00-16:00, Check in at the administration building first.

The local fresh food marketis an excellent place to sample the variety of unique food that Xieng Khouang has to offer. The cool climate and high altitude of the province produces many food items and forest products that are not available in other parts of Laos, e.g. mushrooms, peaches, plums and passion fruit. Some people also sell exotic meats, such as living bamboo rats or pheasants.

The Navang Craft Center is famous for woodcarving. This family business produces wood crafts made from scented Long Leng Wood (Fujian Cypress), a rare wood. You can watch the carvers work and buy souvenirs daily from 7:30-20:00.

There are several War Memorials in Phonsavanh that were constructed to commemoreate the thousands of Pathet Lao soldiers who lost their lives during the Indochina Wars and to honour the Vietnamese soldiers who fought alongside them. Climb up the small hills and you will be rewarded with great views of the town and surrounding areas.

The Mulberry Silk Farm of Lao Sericulture Co, [1] a fair trade company, is dedicated to enabling Lao village silk producers in the Northern provinces to revive the art of high quality local silk production. Villagers are trained in sericulture, the process of raising silkworms, processing and improved weaving techniques and natural dying. Leaves, bark, vines, berries and seeds create colour choices to match virtually any taste. To learn about the whole process you are welcome to visit the farm. A self guided tour will lead you trough the center. Any purchase of souvenirs will help the local communities and enabling them to rise out of poverty. It is located in Ban Li (just west of Phonsavan on Route 13) and is open Mon - Sat 8:00 - 16:00.

At the UXO-Visitor Information Center [2] in the center of Phonsavan (opposite Craters restaurant)the Mines Advisory Group (MAG) informs about the UXO (unexploded ordnance) problematic in the province. MAG began its Lao program in 1994 and started the first internationally supported UXO clearance operation in Xieng Khouang. MAG works to help people to rebuild their lives and alleviates suffering by responding to the needs of conflict affected communities. Local staff has been training to clear away the brush, to use a metal detector and recognize ordance. Their village assisted clearance approach allows communities to participate in the process. Open Mon - Fri 8:00-20:00 and Sat/Sun 16:00-20:00.

Old Cemetery and Lake Jao Supanouvong. This large cemetery is located on a hill 1 km north of Phonsavanh. What makes it unique is that Tai Dam animist tombs are mixed together with Catholic tombstones, Chinese graves and Lao Buddhist reliquary. The hill top offers sweeping views and is an ideal spot for watching the sun set of the green hills. The lake 3km north of town is named in honor of Prince Supanouvong the first president of the Lao PDR. Once the site of the provincial jail, it is now a place for a quick retreat.

Typical local products from Phonsavanh and the surrounding area are natural dyes and textiles each with individual pattern depending on the ethnic group, basketry, mulberry paper umbrellas from Ban Mixay, spoons made from war scrap from Ban Napia or Hmong embroidery. A special drink is Mastake Whiskey made from Hed Wai, a highly valued mushroom from the pine forests of Xieng Khouang.

Phonsavan has a surpringly broad offer of food for a provincial town its size. There are about 32 proper restaurants and many Pho-Soup shops. You can easily find Chinese, Vietnamese and Lao restaurants but also some specials:

Craters caters to Western tastes with a menu of pizza, burgers (only so-so) and other favorites. It does have a nice interior design compared to the other places in town.

The best Lao Food you get in Maly Hotel including a very special interior design with lots of bombs and other knick-knack.

Another really good Lao-international restaurant is located between craters and Nisha (on the same side as Craters) - very basic on the first glance on the second the have excellent local steaks with mashed potatoes and the whole range of Lao food. (Name and photo follows)

Nisha is an Indian restaurant that serves Indian and Lao food, for vegetarians and meat lovers alike. The interior is very unassuming but the food is recommended.

Vasana Hotel has a good and nice restaurant with a pleasant view.

Auberge de la Plain des Jarres - Phoupadeng Hotel has an excellent French restaurant with cuisine influenced from the Alsace, which is completely in its own league. Highly recommend. Not cheap.

The restaurants are the natural place for a drink, however there are many Lao beer places in town. The One opposite Maly Hotel is located on a small lake. They serve Tiger Beer and have a good menu with fresh fish. There is a similar place on the other side of the lake, directly opposite the hotel. There is a discotheque at Chittavanh Hotel popular with the locals and well, catering to local tastes. The only alternative is a very similar place aptly named Highway Karaoke, which is at the crossing from the mainstreet to the airport street.

There are 12 hotels and 39 guest houses in Phonsavan. Most guesthouses are locted on and around the main street - travel books normally recommend Nice Guest House, White Orchid or Dok Khoun Guesthouse (there is a hotel of the same name).

• Maly Hotel, (One kilometer south west of the bus terminal), ? (856) 061 312031, [3]. Very friendly staff who speak English quite fluently. Free wifi available, however not the fastest speed. A restaurant is also on the premises that is well mentioned in other travel guides. Rooms have Cable TV, Air conditioning and very clean and maintained. 26 rooms. Double or twin 200,000 with aircon, 150,000 non. Single 150,000 with aircon, 100,000 without. 100,000.  edit

• The Vansana Hotel is a well managed hotel and one of the best (and priciest) in town. Conveniently located just 30 minutes from the Plain of Jars, the Vansana Plain of Jars Hotel offers 38 guest rooms and suites waiting to provide first class service and hospitality. Set beautifully atop a hill, all rooms offers private balconies for you to experience Lao natural beauty. Vansana plain of jars Hotel (VPH), Ban Phonesavanh, Xieng Khuang Province, Tel: (+856-61) 213 170-5,

Fax: (856-61) 213 174

• In a league of its own is the pricey but classy 15 room Phoupadeng Hotel also called Auberge de la Plain des Jarres). It is the only hotel managed by a professional hotelier, a Laotian who speaks impeccable English and French. It has 15 wooden bungalows set amid pine trees on a hill, offering superb views. From US$30 to US$ 60 (includes breakfast).Phone (+856 30) 517-0282, email auberge_plainjars@yahoo.fr

• The Anoulakkanelao is a new 32 room hotel in the city center. It has spacious and clean room, many with a nice view over the green hills of Phonsavan. The breakfast is basic but good. Prices range from 150.000 Kip and up. It is also the only hotel in the province with an elevator. Phone 061 312308 (there is also English speaking staff, try twice if you happen to connect to somebody who does not speak English)

• The Xiengkhouang Hotel is a big 48 room hotel. Not the nicest architecture but the rooms are spacious and good. Phone 061 213567

There are plenty of internet cafes located on the main street which are fast enough for skype. There is a DHL drop off point at the main market and a Lao post office. Nisha restaurant is selling postcards, which are still difficult to get in Phonsavanh.

• Plain of Jars
• Vientiane
• Luang Prabang
• Vieng Xai
• Vietnam
• Vinh